Discover how kathak’s timeless elegance continues to shape Indian fashion
You’ve likely encountered angrakhas, anarkalis, and kamarbands more often than you realise. These timeless pieces aren’t just beautiful; they hold a rich history, deeply woven into the fabric of Indian sartorial heritage, with their roots steeped in Kathak. I vividly remember stepping into my first Kathak class. I was nervous, knowing absolutely nothing about the art form, and intimidated by the sight of graceful dancers twirling effortlessly while the teacher counted beats. I sat awkwardly in a corner, my dad by my side, fumbling with my ghungroos. Neither of us knew how to tie them. Thankfully, a woman next to us came to our rescue, helping me secure the tiny bells around my ankles. As she worked, she smiled and said, “These bells have a history.” At the time, I didn’t quite understand the depth of her words. But now, I can say with confidence that Kathak, one of India’s oldest and most celebrated dance forms, dates back 2,000 to 3,000 years, originating during the Vedic period. In its early days, it was an art of storytelling, where performers in temples used mudras (hand gestures) to narrate divine tales through movements and expressions.
Fast forward to the 16th century, during the Mughal era, Kathak transitioned into a form of royal entertainment, captivating audiences in the opulent courts of the nawabs. Dancers donned exquisite silk anarkalis, their waists accentuated by delicate kamarbands that enhanced the flowing silhouette of their attire. Intricate zari embroidery on rich fabrics mirrored the grandeur of the royal ambience.Men, too, joined the performances, dressed in tapered churidars or wide-leg pyjamas,complementing the elegance of their female counterparts. With its mesmerising footwork and enchanting twirls, Kathak not only left its mark on culture but also influenced the world of fashion. Designers Payal Singhal and Punit Balana have both embraced this influence in their contemporary creations.
During a recent conversation, they shared how Kathak- inspired aesthetics continue to shape their designs.“My lehengas often feature asymmetrical cuts and modern silhouettes, but the embellishments—like floral vines, jaali patterns, and pastel, Mughal-inspired colour palettes—are unmistakably inspired by traditional styles,” explains Singhal. “These influences also extend to fabric choices like silk, brocade, and organza, echoing the Mughal court’s grandeur. However, I reimagine these elements in softer, more relaxed silhouettes to appeal to today’s bride and beyond.” Both designers draw inspiration from different gharanas (schools) of the dance form. Singhal’s designs channel the softness and romance of the Lucknow gharana while Balana draws from the boldness and fluidity of the Jaipur gharana.
“I find the adaptability of angrakhas and kamarbands particularly compelling,” Balana shares.“These elements inspire layering and structure in modern garments.They allow us to create pieces that are rooted in cultural authenticity while catering to the evolving tastes and lifestyles of contemporary consumers.” This evolution is not limited to fashion. Kathak dancers themselves have adapted their costumes to balance tradition and functionality. Aditi Mangaldas, a renowned Kathak performer, spoke about the significance of the churidar in Kathak. “The form requires the feet to be visible, as there’s a particular way of tying the bells. Traditionally, churidars were made of cotton, which was prone to tearing and sweat stains. Now, lycra is a much more flexible and functional alternative.” She adds beautifully, “The outfit needs to move and find the air within the fabric, the fire within the colour, the sun and moon within the zari, and the silence within the folds.”
Another celebrated dancer, Aditi Bhagwat, reflected on the transformation of Kathak costumes over time. “In the early 1900s, dancers like Rohini Bhate and Damayanti Joshi performed in saris. Today, saris have largely disappeared from Kathak attire. Palazzos are now popular for Sufi-inspired performances, and the dupatta has almost disappeared. Earlier, costumes included four pieces—a churidar, an angrakha, a dupatta, and a jacket— but they were too bulky. Double-layered ghagras and barabandi-style anarkalis have become more practical replacements.” As I walked away from this conversation, I couldn’t help but marvel about how deeply Kathak is woven into India’s cultural fabric. In the designs of Singhal and Balana, we don’t just see clothing, we see the legacy of an art form created by dancers such as Mangaldas and Bhagwat. And for me, that’s what makes Indian design so special—its ability to evolve while staying true to its roots.
Fast forward to the 16th century, during the Mughal era, Kathak transitioned into a form of royal entertainment, captivating audiences in the opulent courts of the nawabs. Dancers donned exquisite silk anarkalis, their waists accentuated by delicate kamarbands that enhanced the flowing silhouette of their attire. Intricate zari embroidery on rich fabrics mirrored the grandeur of the royal ambience.Men, too, joined the performances, dressed in tapered churidars or wide-leg pyjamas,complementing the elegance of their female counterparts. With its mesmerising footwork and enchanting twirls, Kathak not only left its mark on culture but also influenced the world of fashion. Designers Payal Singhal and Punit Balana have both embraced this influence in their contemporary creations.
During a recent conversation, they shared how Kathak- inspired aesthetics continue to shape their designs.“My lehengas often feature asymmetrical cuts and modern silhouettes, but the embellishments—like floral vines, jaali patterns, and pastel, Mughal-inspired colour palettes—are unmistakably inspired by traditional styles,” explains Singhal. “These influences also extend to fabric choices like silk, brocade, and organza, echoing the Mughal court’s grandeur. However, I reimagine these elements in softer, more relaxed silhouettes to appeal to today’s bride and beyond.” Both designers draw inspiration from different gharanas (schools) of the dance form. Singhal’s designs channel the softness and romance of the Lucknow gharana while Balana draws from the boldness and fluidity of the Jaipur gharana.
“I find the adaptability of angrakhas and kamarbands particularly compelling,” Balana shares.“These elements inspire layering and structure in modern garments.They allow us to create pieces that are rooted in cultural authenticity while catering to the evolving tastes and lifestyles of contemporary consumers.” This evolution is not limited to fashion. Kathak dancers themselves have adapted their costumes to balance tradition and functionality. Aditi Mangaldas, a renowned Kathak performer, spoke about the significance of the churidar in Kathak. “The form requires the feet to be visible, as there’s a particular way of tying the bells. Traditionally, churidars were made of cotton, which was prone to tearing and sweat stains. Now, lycra is a much more flexible and functional alternative.” She adds beautifully, “The outfit needs to move and find the air within the fabric, the fire within the colour, the sun and moon within the zari, and the silence within the folds.”
Another celebrated dancer, Aditi Bhagwat, reflected on the transformation of Kathak costumes over time. “In the early 1900s, dancers like Rohini Bhate and Damayanti Joshi performed in saris. Today, saris have largely disappeared from Kathak attire. Palazzos are now popular for Sufi-inspired performances, and the dupatta has almost disappeared. Earlier, costumes included four pieces—a churidar, an angrakha, a dupatta, and a jacket— but they were too bulky. Double-layered ghagras and barabandi-style anarkalis have become more practical replacements.” As I walked away from this conversation, I couldn’t help but marvel about how deeply Kathak is woven into India’s cultural fabric. In the designs of Singhal and Balana, we don’t just see clothing, we see the legacy of an art form created by dancers such as Mangaldas and Bhagwat. And for me, that’s what makes Indian design so special—its ability to evolve while staying true to its roots.